04.18.08
Mono: More delicious than a barrel of monkeys.
Looks pretty, right? Looks even prettier full of people and brimming with food and wine. I wrote of Mono’s opening a few weeks back for another Web site I write for, but aside from sampling a spicy dessert, I hadn’t had the privilege of actually having the food. What a privilege it is!
We started our meal with the signature ahi with sesame, shallots, jalapeno granita, and soba noodles. It was fantastic. Generally, I find soba dull and hard to punch up, but the meyer lemon and tuna made the noodles fresh and flavorful. The jalapeno granita added delightful texture and flavor to the cold dish.
We followed the ahi with prawns a la plancha, which were served along a crostini with white bean puree. The garlicky prawns mixed well with cherry tomatoes and an Italian prosecco. I am a prawn snob, and these were the best-cooked I’ve had in a long while.
Next, we tried the clam chowder, a creamy New England variety that wasn’t too fishy. While tasty, it felt a little heavy for the warm night, and while the presentation in an oversized shot glass is lovely, it was hard to sip out the chunky potatoes. If you order this, ask for a spoon.
The soup was followed by a goat cheese and beet salad which was bright and fresh, if a little underdressed.
Next we had the steak special paired with a buttery Rutherford cabernet. The steak was cooked to perfection, deep pink on the inside but a with a hint of char on the outside. My dining companion, Todd, remarked that it was the best steak he’d had in years and I totally agree. Alongside the steak was the most delightful surprise of the meal – a modern chile relleno, stuffed with mashed potatoes and topped with fontina cheese. It was fabulous, with the mild chile flavor bringing out the earthiness of the potatoes.Â
Finally, we shared the lamb, which was also tender and cooked just right. It’s miso sauce with apples, carrots, and baby bok choy complemented the meat with a pleasing sweetness, that contrasted nicely with our previous meat and potatoes. The lamb was paired with an Argentinian merlot.
A dense butterscotch pot de creme was shared for dessert. It was a perfect, lightly sweet treat to finish off the meal. Todd had a cafe au lait, which was stunning in its presentation.
Mono absolutely exceeded my expectations. They’ve only been serviing dinner for a few weeks, yet the service was smooth and we felt well-cared for. Even more, we noticed that every patron seemed to be receiving personal, friendly attention. The food was a revelation – absolutely the most interesting, best-executed take on global fusion I’ve had for a long time. The fish was fresh, the meat was flavorful, and everything was beautifully presented. All night, diners seemed to be watching the other patrons just to see what pretty plates would be delivered to their neighbors’ tables. I know I did – how else would I know what to order next time?
mono
247 4th st.
510.834.0260